Is Canon Rebel XS suitable for astrophotography?
I have a canon rebel XS camera with a T ring and the other piece to look into the scope with. When I use it I put it on 30 seconds of exposure time trying to take a picture of the Ring Nebula (M57) but nothing shows up its just all black. I can’t hold the camera because when I do the image will get blurred so I leave it on a auto shoot. I can predict that it’s out of focus because I’m using a 30 mm eyepiece for myself and 25 mm in the camera. I don’t know if I should spend 300+ dollars getting the camera meant for deep sky objects or just buy this: http://www.telescope.com/Astrophotography/Astrophotography-Accessories/125-Orion-Astrophotography-Flip-Mirror/pc/-1/c/4/sc/61/p/5523.uts
and also buy a 30 mm or 25 mm to match the eyepieces I use.
another thing with the item I showed you; does it support cameras or just the CCD camera? Not sure.
The XS works just fine. What you need is a device that by passes the 30 second limit the camera has. You can do this two ways (both are cheap too) –
1) Use a shutter timer device called a intervalometer
http://www.amazon.com/Timer-Remote-Control-RS-60E3-Canon/dp/B003Q9RERY
2) Use a computer that has the software to control the camera.
http://www.stark-labs.com/nebulosity.html
The next thing you need is stacking software. It is a better thing to do if you take lots of short exposers of your target and then sum them together than one long shot. To do that, you use a free program -
http://www.astronomie.be/registax/
For something like the Ring (good choice, BTW, high in the sky and just big enough to work with) about 20 to 30, 120 second exposers work well. Two things that do help is to take dark frames (cap the scope and expose for black the same length of time and picture numbers you took the light photos). And bias frames (same number of pictures, but minimal exposer).
The darks and bias frames help to take out electronic noise and image gradients caused by light pollution and camera noise.
Now, I’m in the process of learning astrophotography it has been quite the learning curve. A huge help has been using a guide camera that can track and correct the main scope while it is imaging. The Orion guider works very well for this, if your scope has the proper connection for it.
If you don’t have such a port or your scope does not have tracking ability, your kinda screwed. A decently aligned equatorial type platform with guiding can help cover a multitude of problems. If you running in alt-az only, then you will be severally limited to no more than 25 second exposures before image rotation sets in.
One thing about DSLR’s used for astrophotography, is shutter life. For “normal” usage a shutter will last a life time (about 100,000 cycles. For astro work, that 100k number can be blasted through in a year or two. Using a flip mirror system to frame and focus the camera is a great idea (use one myself) but also, see about getting a cheap CCD imager off of Astromart. I got a cheap Orion StarShoot II for $150, just to learn on and not wipe out my XTi shutter. Don’t expect any great results with a cheap CCD astro camera, but it gets you used to the drill it takes to do decent astrophotography. I figure I’m nearly done with the basics and just ready to move up to the DSLR, later this summer.
Just take your time and learn each step in the process. It is a long steep learning curve, but once you get over it, the rest is actually pretty easy.
http://www.astropix.com/HTML/BEGINNER/Beginner.htm
http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/dslr/EOS300Dastro.html
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